The ancient city of Dali is one of the most visited towns in Yunnan by both Chinese and foreigners. It has a history dating back more than 4,000 years. However, it was consolidated as a city in 738 AD when it was established as the capital of the Nanzhao Kingdom (738-902 AD).
Almost the entire old town is walled and has managed to preserve the traditional Chinese architecture. Specifically, it is a type of architecture characteristic of the Bai ethnic minority, which belongs to this area and resides in and around the ancient city of Dali.
During my first trip in China, I went to the ancient city of Dali with the main purpose of spending some time in a Kung Fu temple in the surroundings. I had heard about this temple in Laos and had been curious ever since.
After 7 years living in China, I have already returned to the ancient city of Dali a total of 6 times. Here is a basic guide to the city, I tell you the best places to see in the old town of Dali and the best things to do in this beautiful city of Yunnan. Enjoy!
How to go to the Ancient City of Dali? Train journey from Kunming to Dali Old Town
Dali is 200 miles from Kunming. Since 2018 there is a high speed train from Kunming and in two hours it leaves you in Dali. The ticket costs 155 Rmb (20 euros).
Although the ticket you buy says Dali, you actually get to Xiaguan, which is something like the new city of Dali. In theory, there is no reason to stay in Xiaguan unless you want to extend your tourist visa. If you want to buy train tickets in advance you can buy them on Trip.com.
When you leave the train station, right in front of it, you have to take the number 8 bus that takes you to the old town of Dali or, if not, you can negotiate the price to go by taxi.
Where to stay in the ancient city of Dali?
The first thing I saw when I arrived was a big gateway to the old town that impressed me quite a lot. You soon realize that the town is a big grid with a gate on each side. The best thing to do is to stay in one of the many hostels in the old town.
Of all the hotels I saw in booking I was particularly convinced by the Dali Tea Culture Inn where you can stay for 5 euros in a shared room or for 10 euros in a private room. If you’re looking for something more luxurious but without excesses, you can stay at the Dali Yunxi Boutique Inn, where you can spend the night for 28 euros the private room.
What to see and do in the ancient city of Dali?
1. Walk around the entire old town
In one day you can go through the whole town in peace. Visit the most famous streets; Fuxing Road and Foreigner Street, see each of the four gates, especially when they are illuminated at night. Go to local markets and appreciate the typical architecture of the Bai ethnic minority.
The only pity is that where people used to live, now there are only souvenir shops, guesthouses or bars, so sometimes you can lose a little of your charm. Even so, the streams that run through many of the stone streets or the typical Chinese red lamps that light up the town at night help to enjoy the town.
2. Get on one of the four gates
To enjoy the old town of Dali 100% I advise you to climb at least one of the gates to see the beautiful architecture of Dali from above, be amazed by the great mountains on one side (Cangshan Mountain) and see in the distance the Erhai Lake on the other side.
3. Lake Erhai, the second largest in Yunnan
The ancient city of Dali is surrounded by mountains and right next to Lake Erhai. Lake Erhai is the seventh largest lake in China and the second largest in Yunnan. This beautiful lake with a few island inside and mountains around it. It is located at an altitude of 1972 meters above sea level and occupies an area of 250 km².
At Erhai Lake you can basically do 3 things:
- Rent a bicycle and take a ride around the lake and, in passing, visit the various fishing villages around.
- You can also take a private car tour. It will cost you from 100Rmb to 350Rmb depending on how far you want to go and it will stop at the most famous fishing villages of the lake.
- Take a boat tour that stops at the islands around Erhai Lake to enjoy a quiet and beautiful ride.
4. Visit the Three Pagodas of Dali
Just outside Dali, 4 km away, you can also visit the Three Pagodas of Dali, a Buddhist temple complex built in the 9th century, during the Tang Dynasty. These pagodas are an important symbol of Buddhism in the region and represent the rich cultural heritage of the ancient Nanzhao Kingdom, an ancient dynasty that existed between the 9th and 13th century in what is now Yunnan province.
The Central Pagoda (also known as the East Tower Pagoda), rises to 69 meters and is surrounded by two smaller pagodas, the West Pagoda and the East Pagoda. It is the most visited monument in the area. Entrance costs 60 Rmb (8 euros) and is definitely worth a visit of at least 2 hours.
5. Xizhou: a traditional Bai-style village
East of Erhai Lake, about 30 km from Dali, lies Xizhou, a small traditional village famous for its Bai-style houses, a local ethnic group. It is known for its well-preserved architecture, especially the “three courtyard” houses. It is also famous for its markets and the production of the famous local beer.
The batik is a traditional dyeing technique practiced by the Bai ethnic group. These textiles are known for their deep indigo hues and intricate white patterns, created using a resist-dyeing process with wax or ties. The designs often draw inspiration from nature and local culture, featuring floral, geometric, and animal motifs. In Xizhou, you can watch artisans at work in local workshops, where this ancient craft is preserved, and purchase these stunning textiles, ranging from decorative pieces to modern products like tablecloths, clothing, and accessories.
6. Walk around Cangshan Mountain
Cangshan Mountain occupies a 50 km long territory where the lowest peak is at 2100m and the highest at 4122m. On this mountain there is a trail which can be walked for 15 km passing temples, waterfalls, caves and shrines. This trail is called Cloud Pass.
During the course of this trail you will pass by Gantong Temple, Qingbi Stream, The Grand Canyon and Zhonghe Temple. If the weather is good, you can also enjoy wonderful views of the entire Lake Erhai.
7. Learn Kung Fu at Wu Wei Si Temple
Wu Wei Si Temple is a temple located on Cangshan Mountain a few kilometers from Dali Old Town. In this temple you can stay with the monks and learn Kung Fu or Taichi for only 500 Rmb (65 euros) a week.
In my case, I spent three days in Dali and it was enough to realize that it is a charming place, probably one of the most beautiful villages I have seen along the way, but after a few days there is not much to do. Finally, I went to the Wu Wei Si temple to live with Shaolin monks and learn Kung Fu. In the link I explain my experience.
If you are thinking of making a trip to Yunnan you can have a look at the route we organize for Yunnan with guide and driver. You may also be interested in the list of Tips for travelling in China.
Things don’t last long, experiences last forever.
