Onomichi, one of Japan’s secrets: Travel Guide

Onomichi is a Japanese city located on the coast of the Inland Sea in Hiroshima Prefecture. It is characterized as a quiet town full of 9th century Buddhist temples and its steep hills overlooking the Seto Inland Sea.

It also stands out for its quiet and authentic atmosphere, ideal for those seeking a less crowded cultural experience in Japan. In this post I will explain what to do and what to see in Onomichi, an unknown but beautiful city in Japan.

How to get from Okayama to Onomichi?

From Okayama you can go to Onomichi with the JR Sanyo line. The journey is 1h 30 and costs 1140 yen (7 euros). There are trains every half hour, it is the cheapest and most comfortable option. If you decide to take the Shinkansen line, apart from the fact that you will have to pay more, the Shin – Onomichi station is far away and when you arrive you will have to take a bus to the center. You can get more information about how to get to Onomichi here.

How to locate Onomichi temples?

Basically, if you arrive at the Shin – Onomichi station, you will start your journey by the Way of Literature, if you arrive at the Onomichi station, at the bottom of the hill, you will start your journey by the Temple Walk. In my case, I arrived directly at Onomichi station. Just arriving at the station there is an information point where you are given a small map so that you can quickly find the beginning of the path.

What to see in Onomichi?

1. The Temple Walk and the Way of Literature

The city is located on several hills so it is a network of alleys with quite a slope. In order to not to get lost among all these alleys one can choose between two types of routes: Temple Walk (Old Temple Loop) and The Path of Literature. Of course, it’s best to combine them.

The Literature Trail is the shorter of the two, stretching from Senkoji Park to the city. Once in the city the path joins the Temples Walk. This walk runs from east to west and connects 25 of Onomichi’s best-known temples. Once on the path, it’s pretty easy to follow the map. All the temples are different, all are very nice and full of details.

By the way, there are many figures of children with red caps and bibs. They are representations of Jizō Bosatsu (地蔵菩薩), one of the most beloved deities in Japanese Buddhism. Jizō is the protector of the souls of children, especially those who have predeceased their parents, including babies who die during gestation or shortly after birth. He is also considered a protector of travelers and a spiritual guide.

2. Visiting the Viewpoints

There are several viewpoints, both along the Temple Walk Trail and on nearby but steep hills, as well as others further from the city center. Each of them offers spectacular views of Onomichi, the port, and the islands of the Seto Inland Sea. Here are the viewpoints:

• Senkoji Mountain Viewpoint (Senkoji Park Viewpoint)
  • Accessible by foot or via the Senkoji ropeway.
  • During cherry blossom season (sakura), the views are especially stunning as the park is filled with cherry trees.
• Jodoji Mountain Viewpoint
  • Located near Jodoji Temple, one of Onomichi’s most important temples.
  • Reached by walking uphill from the temple. Ideal for those seeking a quieter spot with fewer tourists.
• Takami Mountain Viewpoint (Takami-yama Observatory)
  • Situated on Ikuchijima Island, part of the Shimanami Kaido, the famous cycling route connecting Honshu and Shikoku.
  • Requires a vehicle or bicycle to reach the island, followed by a short hike to the viewpoint.
• Tenneiji Temple
  • Located halfway up the hills of Onomichi, this is one of the city’s historical temples.
  • The atmosphere is tranquil and spiritual, perfect for quiet contemplation.
• Onomichi U2 Observatory
  • In the port area, within the Onomichi U2 complex, a modern space combining a hotel, restaurants, and a shop for cyclists.
• Temple Walk Trail Viewpoint
  • Along the famous Temple Walk Trail, which connects several of Onomichi’s historical temples.

3. The beauty and the Art of Onomichi

Onomichi, in addition to being known as the city of temples, with more than 25 historical temples, each with its own distinct features, details, and beauty, has also become popular in Japan for being featured in many Japanese films. The most notable include Tokyo Story and The Naked Island, two Japanese classics.

It also appears in the anime series Kamichu!, which follows the lives of middle school students living in Onomichi. Additionally, the city is home to a museum dedicated to Hirayama Ikuo, one of Japan’s most famous painters.

4. Onomichi Gastronomy

On gastronomy, Onomichi’s local specialty is ramen. If you tell a Japanese person that you’ve been to here, the first thing they’ll ask is if you’ve tried ramen there. So if you go, don’t forget to try it. Here you have the link to a video about how to make ramen.

5. Lucky Cats neighborhood

In one of the alleys near the famous Tenneiji Temple (featured in the cover photo of the post), you’ll find Cat Alley, a small neighborhood dedicated to cats, featuring art galleries, museums, and cafés. Local artist Shunji Sonoyama personally painted all the Fukuishi Neko (lucky stone cats) located throughout this charming corner of Onomichi.

Without a doubt, these figures are connected to the Japanese lucky cats (with their raised paw) known as Maneki-neko. These traditional figures in Japanese culture are considered amulets of good luck and prosperity, often placed in businesses, homes, and restaurants to attract customers, wealth, or success.

Is Onomichi worth going to?

Without a doubt, what I liked most about Onomichi is that you can walk through the temples in silence, almost without crossing anyone. This tranquility combined with the spirituality of the place makes Onomichi a perfect place to relax and let yourself be carried away by the temple routes and the japanese culture.

Although the city is beautiful, if you go just in time you don’t need to stay one night. You can do as I did: arrive in the morning, spend the day walking around quietly and in the afternoon take the train to the city of Hiroshima.

I hope this post about What to do and what to see in Onomichi was useful for you. In my next post I will tell you about Hiroshima, a modern city that looks to the future but does not forget the past. If you are thinking of going on a trip to Japan, you also may be interested in the post about The best places to see in Kyoto and A day trip to Miyajima Island.

Please, don’t forget to comment, value and/or share. Thanks and enjoy your trip!

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